| 26 January 2023 11:30
William - It really depends on the shape of the back wall. The chisel will give a dead straight line, point to point, or you can make the line a little curved with the gouge. On the other hand, I do tend to be lazy - or perhaps more positively, efficient - and use the tool I have in hand, and so I might cut the end will of the serif with the gouge - but it's relatively flat and I can cut the straight line at the back wall by eye with it. I hope that answers your question.
At to, let's call them, fat letters: it's got to be a wider chisel (or gouge). The cutting edge must always break the surface as it moves down the wall so as not to tear the wood. Having said that, you can often cut these wider ends with a narrower chisel a bit at a time, with final finishing and merging cuts.
I hope we'll see some of your lettering in the Gallery!
| 24 January 2023 20:44
Chris. Again, the video is very helpful for me. Early on in your lettering book (serifs), you use a chisel to cut the back wall; at another point in the book you have chosen a gouge. In the serif video you use a gouge. What is the advantage of the gouge over the chisel for cutting the back wall? What would be your tool of choice if the letters were 2x as wide as a standard 2" letter?
| 07 January 2017 16:00
John - If you watch the video, you'll see that it's different from Straights part 1, which is video #4.
In Straights part 1 (#4), I show Rob how to do it.
In Straights parts 2(#5), THIS video, I supervise Rob as he has a go.
As I say to Paul below, I've presented the chapters into 2 parts like this (me, then Rob) for the whole DVD. You can see it in the directory on the left.
| 07 January 2017 01:31
Straights part 2 is pointing to Straights part 1 video stream.
| 24 April 2013 18:46
Paul - In part 1, I show Rob what to do. In this one, part 2, I supervise him trying to do it... This is the pattern throughout this whole series.
| 24 April 2013 17:41
Part 2 appears identical to Part 1, am I missing something? Thanks