This is me, shamelessly telling you about the new lettering chisels from Auriou that I designed
I take responsiblity for taking the profile away from the normal, heavy parallel-sided chisel to the pre-industrial 'allongee' shape, in which the blade splays from the shoulder. The allongee form makes these tools lighter to work with and gives you both more visibility at the cut and more knife-like corners. There's a wide range, from 15mm to 45mm.
Forge de Saint Jeury takes responsibility for the forging the resilient, great edge-holding, sexy looking blades.
Give them a go - tell me what you think!
These tools should be available from:
Australia Lie-Nielsen Australia
France Forge de Saint Jeury - Home of Auriou Toolworks
Germany Magma Fine Tools
| 14 February 2019 13:55
Thank you for the reply Chris, I will go and do some more homework.
| 14 February 2019 12:31
Chris - I'm afraid I can't really answer this question directly: The size and shape of the huge number of fonts means there really isn't one size and shape of gouge that fits all. The straights aren't the problem - you can shunt the narrower ones along - nor are the fishtails for the serifs; it's picking the gouges.
The best thing is to draw out your letters onto paper then head over to the Letter Carving videos (on this site) and you'll see one called 'Picking Gouges for Curves'. Use this with a sheffield or other list of sweeps to find those curves you need for the letters. Then you will need to do a little practice to make sure you are right.
So there is a bit of preparation to do here, which I would have to do myself for a font I wasn't used to. Of course, if you use the same size and font again, you'll be able to get straight into it.
| 13 February 2019 19:35
Hello Chris, firstly what fantastic, inspiring webpage you have. I was hoping you could advise on what chisels, fishtails and gouges I will need for times roman font.
I have already purchased your fishtail gouge 10mm a 22mm gouge and a 45mm chisel based on a font size of 45mm, I'm printing out my words and tracing them on to the wood. I have since realised that I need to make my font larger as the 45mm chisel doesn't allow room for serifs, could you advise on correct size font as well please.
| 25 November 2018 12:33
Sienna - The handles shouldn't come loose on a new tool but sometimes they do, no doubt to do with the wood shrinking. If this happens - the tang seems loose in the hole - I pack the hole with fine sawdust and then refit the handle. You need to grip the blade vertically in a vice with the shoulder resting on the vice jaws. Line up the handle and tap it back home with a mallet - you can see me do this in the videos about handles.
(I do the same thing if the blade is offset, not in a straight line with the handle: knock the handle off, pack hole and refit. It's really quite a quick remedy; you certainly don't need a new handle!
This effort you've made, acquiring the skills to sharpen your tools properly - I can't tell you how important that will be to you as a carver. It's bedrock not just for the carving itself but for for your own satisfaction and enjoyment of the craft. Well done. Keep going!
| 21 November 2018 05:17
I swear last comment for a long time!!! Haha
I took your advice and went to work with commissioning my new auriou set. Drumroll..... I was FINALLY able to get a perfect 15 degree on both sides of the 2 chisels I started working on. I was much more careful, sat and stared at the tools for a good while just planning how to find that perfect angle on the grinder. I want to throw a party I am so thrilled I am now back on the road to actually carving again after my sharpening blues.
Thank you so much for your videos and advice on sharpening!
My last question is about the handles. I have not used my tools yet with a mallet or anything and the handle came loose from the tang. I saw your video on repairing the tang, and was wondering if that sort of step was too drastic for a new tool, or if there is a more typical way to “handle” the situation when it is new out of shipping box. The others are perfect, I’m thinking this one didn’t sit right in the pilot hole or something.
| 12 November 2018 19:18
Thank you Chris!
I will try with a hard Arkansas that is a bit more course than the black one I have.
For the angle, I was referring to the lettering angle. It’s been the thing I enjoy carving the most. I spent a lot of time last night working in the shop with the tools, after watching the pye-Cosman videos again several times, I got the straights down much better, and am going to really study the cuts for rounds. I do enjoy the angle of the gouges, but will try to Commision the 6/14mm as suggested, I won’t know how amazing the tool can really be until I customize it! I am going to definitely go a lot slower this time and maybe use the soft Arkansas to make adjustments instead of the crazy excited grinding I did on my old Pfeil tools. Wish I could show a picture of my Pfeil 3/14 fishtail. My husband and I looked at it last night and were in tears laughing so hard. Lessons with sharpening have stung, but I’m glad we had a good laugh at the epic fail that was my first grinder attempt ????
With carving I feel like I learned the shortcut ways and unpredictable techniques that did create some really nice stuff, but very inconsistent depths and shapes of letters. So I need to slow down and go back to learn the basics the right way, I know it will pay off in the long run. Thank you so much for your quick and very useful response!!!
| 12 November 2018 10:19
Sienna - First of all, relax! It's just a piece of metal.
2. Sharpening carving tools is a skill to learn but has precise results. So be clear about what you are aiming for when you commission a tool - write it out! - and break it down into steps, as I hope I do on this site. Carving tools are not at all like single bevel carpentry tools, the y feel and work differently, much more fluidly.
3. Remember that any gouge is tempered right back to near the shoulder - you see short old tools that still have years of life in them. So you can remove metal as you get on top of your sharpening skills without in anyway damaging the tool itself.
4. I suggest you just take one tool - just one - the 6 x 14mm is usually a good one to start with and get that right, even if it does end up a little shorter, then move on to another. Take notes; see yourself as building up a body of knowledge...
On to your other comments:
1 You cannot assume the bevel angle of a tool you by is what you want. I can almost guarantee it wasn't put there by a woodcarver! Hence the commissioning: taking possession of the tool, making it work just as you want it to and at it's most efficient. But you only need to commission a tool once; the rest is maintenance. One CAN use tools out of the box, but I can't. All the tools in the picture above ned their bevels lengthening. This is what the factory gives you.
2 The Black Arkansas is so fine a stone that it's like sharpening on a strop; I never use it - I don't even have one. The stone I prefer is the translucent Arkansa, which has much more of a bite. Have a look at the video to check what I'm using.
3. Just checking: That 60 deg angle is for lettering? Not the cutting angle, which should be more like 25-30 deg. I would suspect that if the tool is slipping off the wood and not biting into it, then you have a rounded bevel, especially towards the cutting edge. Make sure the bevel is flat from heel to edge.
Hope this helps!
Just keep going. Keep exploring and learning.
| 11 November 2018 19:55
I just received my 14 piece set of lettering tools in the mail. I have been thinking about them non stop for 4 months or so and my husband surprised me with one of two sets left sold that he found in US. I am in love with them as much as I thought I would be, the tools are such great quality. I did have two questions though I was hoping you could shed some light on.
1- after totally messing up previously with trying to Commision my Pfeil tools, I am scarred on the experience of reshaping, especially since these are so hard to find and was a big decision financially for us. They are seemingly very sharp, if I am going to keep the angle as is, should I then just strop them a bit or maybe do a little black Arkansas stone before strop?
2 - I have only ever used single bevel chisels and am noticing it is a very different sensation with the double bevel, I read that you wrote to keep the 60 degree regardless of bevel angle. But it feels like the tool is buttery haha like slipping when I go to make a cut with the mallet. Is that normal for someone just starting with double bevels? ( considering I have only used 14mm and smaller tools I figured that the larger tools was going to take time to adjust to as well with finding even pressure)
| 25 February 2017 01:36
This note is just FYI, Chris’s book on letter carving is no longer in print this doesn’t mean you can’t pick it up, I just posted on a few woodcarving groups via Facebook within 10 minutes I purchased the book and it has arrived to my home in good order.. Awesome book, tons of information!
| 19 February 2017 11:53
Chris, that helps a lot, I use a CBN wheel for my turning tools & I never used a diamond plate so I had no idea if these were any good for woodcarving
I sincerely do appreciate your time
| 19 February 2017 11:34
Jeffrey - The #1 slipstones will fit the gouges in the lettering set. The chisels of course only need benchstones to sharpen them.
Sorry, but I have very little knowledge of diamond stones, but here's what I think:
You only really need 2 benchstones: 'coarse' for the shaping (and even that is hardly needed if you use a belt grinder) and 'fine' (or very fine) for finishing off. So this set of 4 will see some redundancy for a start and I'm not convinced diamonds is the best option anyway...
Diamond stones WILL wear out, because they are only as good as what binds the diamond dust to the steel plate, once the grit has fallen off, it's gone. Carborundum stones on the other hand can be flattened and will last a lifetime. If you can't find an translucent Arkansas benchstone, a very hard white should substitute.
Many people find the Veritas honing guide helps get a consistency in the chisel bevels that they find difficult to achieve by eye and hand, so thumbs up for that. You need to make sure the stone on which you are working is flat and big enough to get the best result with the jig. It's here that the diamond sharpening plates score because they are always flat and can be quite wide.
I'm not sure how much all this helps you make a decision!
| 19 February 2017 10:22
I have two question:
I have ordered the 14 letter carving set, could you please guide me to the best “Chris Pye” slip stone set? (Chris Pye slip stone kit #1?)
Second question, would the DMT 11 1/2" Dia-Sharp Diamond Kit (see link below) be a good choice to use with the Veritas Mk. II Honing Guide Deluxe Package
Thanks for your time,
| 12 January 2016 09:51
Chris, any idea if the Auriou tools are available in Canada specifically in Quebec?
Thanks - Claude
| 12 January 2016 09:48
Claude: Sorry, I'm not really involved in the distribution. The best people to ask about other countries would be Classic Hand Tools - link above. Mike Hancock, who is the director of Classic Hand Tools, was directly involved the their development and will know everything about where they can be bought from.
| 30 July 2015 08:27
Thank you very much!
| 29 July 2015 11:24
Alice - You'll need 2 benchstones: coarse (Carborundum) and fine (Translucent Arkansas). Slipstones: for the lettering gouges, the thickest set ('sculpture' set) and the next thinnest (sorry, can't remember the name of this set offhand) for the inside bevels. Do watch all the lessons on this site carefully (especially 'No Fear Sharpening') to really understand what the tools should look like you are aiming for when you sharpen the tools. Also look through the Rob Cosman lettering DVD lessons - there are some basic exercises to work on before you attempt the letter. Mallet: I'd suggest a weight between 14-20oz (4-500g) - and a wooden one with a large head, rather than a small metal one. I hope you enjoy lettering. It takes a lot of practice to do it well, you have to learn about layout too. But it's very satisfying in the end. So, just keep at it. Step by step!
| 29 July 2015 07:07
Hi Criss I am about buying your set of 14 tools for letter carving but I am very confused about bench stones and slip stones. I have seen your signature series and l was wondering if you could advice me which are the essentials considering the set of tools I am buying. And wich mallet would you use for it , considering l have got very small hands and l am a beginner.Thank you very much. Alice
| 25 October 2014 10:28
Hi Chris --Thank you for the info, much appreciated :)
| 21 October 2014 16:21
Richard - As a rule, you want to check over ANY carving tool that you buy (or simply acquire) for cutting angle, inner bevel etc and see what you need to do. With these chisels, you only need to check the cutting angle. Even though I've helped bring forth these tools, I don't have control over the individual smiths that make them. Make sure it's low, around 15deg on each side. The blades are thin so they aren't likely to take much 'tuning'. I hope you enjoy using them - I'm very pleased with how they've turned out!
| 21 October 2014 11:00
Hi Chris, just got the full set of letter carving chisels. Just a quick question, do I need to "Commision" these as shown in your sharping/commissioning video in the same way as the normal carving chiels? Many thanks in advanced
| 11 September 2014 17:17
Enzo - Auriou uses the Sheffield list (S), Pfeil (P) use the term 'cut' for their sweeps (#). A Comparison would be roughly this: P-cut#2 = S-sweep#3; P#3 = slightly quicker S#3; P#5 = S#5; P#7= S#6; P#8 = slightly flatter S#8; P#9 (though often not a true semicircle = S#9; P#11 = S#11. Pfeil seem to miss out cuts #4 and #6. If you table this out, it'll be less confusing. Actually, the best thing to do is get hold of a Pfeil catalogue and the Sheffield list (there's a download here) and photocopy the charts. Then overlay one on the other against a window or other light source and you'll get a direct comparison.
| 03 September 2014 00:36
Most of my tools are from Pfeil. I only can get Pfeil tools for lettering for now. Is it possible to have a comparative guide between Auriou and Pfeil, at least roughly? Thank you.
| 27 March 2014 15:44
Joe - PS... Great to hear the word 'practising' - music to my ears! Persistance is a great quality, one of the best for a carver to have. So, really well done for getting into a regular habit!
| 27 March 2014 12:29
Joe - The 60 deg. is the angle of the trench and has nothing to do with the sharpening of the chisels. Put a bevel of about 15-20deg. equally on both sides of the chisel - straight from the factory they will certainly need some tuning. When you come to carve the trenches, don't think about the bevels etc, look straight to the wood and what sort of trench you want to achieve - let your mind lead the way.
| 27 March 2014 11:33
Chris - with a 60 degree angle for cutting letters, is the bevel then made longer and sharpening the double bevel different?. By the way, in your book, you are spot on about practicing with the non-dominant hand. I am finding that after about a month of some practicing, I have much, much more control. Thanks.
| 04 June 2013 23:47
Chris, and Todd,
Great news! Got an email today from Thomas at Lie-Nielsen (Not sure if that was Mr. Lie-Nielsen himself) but he says, "The lettering chisels arrived yesterday. The sizes are from 15mm to 45mm and are priced from $40 to $58. We should have them on the web site by tomorrow, but if you want to place an order, please call 800-327-2520."
So we can get them here in the states now!
Thanks so much, Chris, for telling us about them, can't wait to get my own!
| 24 April 2013 18:48
Todd - Sorry, I think I was a little pre-emptive here. I' find out and update the note above as soon as I can.
| 23 April 2013 02:33
I checked the Lie Nielsen site but no allongee chisels. Just allongee gouges. Any news on this?