There is no need to sand the 'fabric'. If you cut the surface cleanly, with light facets, you'll end up with a sense of cotton or cloth.
When I'd finished bleaching, I sealed the surface with a matt acrylic varnish, but the result had more of a shine than I expected. I've since rubbed the glossy effect back so it really does appear matt. I suggest you leave the bleached surface unsealed: let it be flat or matt - as cottony fabric as possible.
| 25 September 2020 19:01
Good one this Chris. Thanks.
Have yet to carve any drapery but, from what I've read, and now watched you do, I feel several trial bits may be required before the final carving. Have to agree though, that final 'Matt' varnish isn't at all matt. I've had this problem a lot lately with my two part spray laquer, on Table tops and such like for some degree of heat resistance only I have to say. So much so infact, that I've stopped using it. My preferred finish has always been my own mix of Bee's wax and Turps. Fortunately I've a friend who gives me massive chunks of Wax when ever I need any.
As always great vid and wonderful close up camera work from Carrie. Thanks to you both.
| 20 September 2020 19:00
Dawn - Jelutong (tight grained as possible) is a good carving wood, used by patternmakers in the past, and I've carved it a fair bit. I've never bleached Jelutong but I would think it will bleach well. Do try on a sample of the wood first.
I'm glad you are enjoying the site - let's see you candleholder in the gallery!
| 20 September 2020 09:35
Does jelutong bleach well, in Australia the basswood is far to expensive.
BTW, I am really enjoying the carving, thanks for doing the videos..
| 20 September 2020 09:29
wow, got to try that.