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Repairs 1

This video is taken from the Liberty Pelican project.

There are several ways of dealing with small cracks (or 'shakes'). This is the one I use most often. Take time and trouble over this approach and you'll have a nigh-on invisible repair.


| 05 January 2015 13:15

Dermot - I guess that's what I'm doing here. I re-carve the surface after the wedges. (I've never used any sort of woodfiller and then re-carved; pretty much it's wood or nothing.) The thing is, this wedge isn't really that accurate a fit as it gets further into the wood, so you could put the wedges in, carve away and find the split appearing again. I ignore the split until just short of the final surface, put the wedges of wood in, then finish the carving.

| 31 December 2014 22:31

Chris, can you fill cracks in the block before carving ?

| 27 March 2013 19:26

Michael - If I could glue a broken part back on invisibly - and that depends on the break and how you can clamp it while the glue sets etc - then, yes, I'd certainly do it. I often glue up wood to get the size I want and, really, there's not much difference. I have seen broken parts glued on badly - meaning noticeably - and that just doesn't work.

| 27 March 2013 18:40

Spectacular! This process will be a blessing in the future. In repair, is it ever acceptable to glue on a broken piece of a carving? I was carving a small tree branch with Dogwood flowers, and a fine crack that I did not see in the end grain went through the branch and it broke off 1 1/2" in the carving process(I simply shortened the branch without much ill effect to the design), but would have liked to keep the length. What is your view on this?

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