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Sharpening 6-7


| 16 October 2020 11:51

Terry - Sure, as long as you keep the oil and water separate, there's shouldn't be any problem - and you seem to appreciate this. Oil on the waterstones is the really issue: it takes away from the stone's abrasive action; rather than water on the oilstones.
I guess the best thing is to create your inside bevels first with the oil-based slipstones; rinse the tools with soapy water; dry, and then move on to your waterstones. Something like that?

| 15 October 2020 15:26

Hi Chris - great videos but I think I may have messed up because I have got Japanese whet stones both course and fine but I can't seem to buy any slipstones that are courser than 1000. That means it takes an age to get an inside bevel and just as you say, I've worn it unevenly already! My question is, would it be terrible if I bought slipstones for oil even though for the outer bevel I am using water? Obviously I would need to clean it well in between.

| 11 February 2020 08:53

Reginald - Sorry, I really have no answer to that one. An important point, however, is that the crystals that make up this thing called 'grit' differ between materials; the shape of Arkansas stone crystals differ from those of, say, ceramic or diamond and thus have a different cut. So I don't think this scale is really comparing the same thing.
As a guess though, and since you have to start somewhere, see what 600 grit emery-type paper is like and work coarser or finer from there?

| 07 February 2020 17:25

Reginald - I do know carvers who've used sticky-backed, metal-abrasive paper on a thick sheet of glass quite successfully. You'd have to do an online search to find some.
My only caveat is that the paper does wear out fairly quickly, whereas I'm still using my original stone nearly 40 years after I bought it...

| 13 April 2015 10:44

Rodney - For this initial shaping side of things, you want a nice thick white line to begin with. Once you start grinding or otherwise slipstoning the inside bevel, it'll soon get thinner. So, yes if the edge isn't square I'll square it. And, even if the edge is square I'll make sure I have some meat for the inside bevel. (Many beginners don't make the inside bevel substantial enough - you should definitely feel it; it's not just a scratched surface.)

| 10 April 2015 01:29

Hello Chris, Do you grind every new tool square even if it appears to already be square or were you just demonstrating what to do if you had a tool that wasn't?

| 23 March 2013 20:42

Thanks for that Chris. I think I will when funds allow. No one said wood carving was cheap. But I suppose as all things in life, you get out what you put in. Your books are a great help as well. I've got 4 so far. Keep up your good work with the site and keep those videos coming. Loving them. Thanks again.

| 20 March 2013 09:22

Barrie - Yes, bite the bullet and invest in a translucent Arkansas benchstone. You need it to get the immaculate finished edge - carborundum, even the fine, is not fine enough - and it'll last a lifetime. (Mine has so far!)

| 19 March 2013 11:50

Hi Chris.Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I am new to carving. I have purchased one of your signature coarse/fine oil benchstones and would like to know if this would be sufficient enough to get started with, or would I still need the arkansas stone as well? Thanks in advance. Barrie.

| 02 October 2012 02:55

Eric - The name of the oil that I am using is actually '3-in-1'. It's a common, light, lubricating oil, sort of thing used for bicycles, hinges etc.

| 01 October 2012 22:54

In the video you say your oil ratio is 3:1. What would those parts be?

| 26 July 2012 22:26

What a great video! I was shopping around the internet for this video and found it here on the woodcarving workshop!
Thank you for sharing this video it is very helpful!


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