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Step 7: Stropping

Subscribing members can download here a PDF with notes for this lesson and a crib sheet of the various steps to have beside you while you work.



Comments (10)
douglas hastings
douglas hastings | September 16, 2011 11:30

Thanks Chris,for making vee tool sharpening less challenging and mysterious. Like many carvers I've been a bit nervous but your step by step teaching is interesting and helpful. Douglas

Dennis Matthews
Dennis Matthews | September 17, 2011 03:22

I agree Douglas. Very helpful. I like the concept of breaking it down to two chisels and a gouge in the middle. Really demystifies the sharpening process. Thanks Chris. Dennis

Keith Cheveralls
Keith Cheveralls | September 19, 2011 17:26

Great stuff Chris, As one who in my earlier years of carving actually had the misfortune of breaking out a wing on a V tool through improper sharpening these step by step tuttorials will be invaluable. I especially like the emphasis you place on locking your arms and wrists and use body motion to maintain the bevel angle. Keith Cheveralls USA

Russ Merz
Russ Merz | September 23, 2011 18:03

Chris: Great tutorial ! Simple and crystal clear. If my V tools are not razor sharp now, no one but myself to blame. This is a great model for future lessons: video, audio, presentation, content, all excellent ! Russ, Cincinnati, OH - USA

Mario Garcia
Mario Garcia | October 5, 2011 18:20

Hi, Once the tool, whether that be a V-tool or gouge is sharpened, am I correct by saying that it only requires stropping to maintain this cutting edge?...or do you have to resharpen the tools again at some point?

Chris Pye
Chris Pye | October 9, 2011 10:44

'Commissioning' a carving tool so the tool is now working at its best: checking the cutting angle, (with a gouge) adding an inside bevel, checking the cutting edge and so on is usually a one-time event. Regular - and correct - stropping will maintain the edge and that's all you need to do. Strop often and BEFORE the edge becomes dull. However, with time you'll find the shape will 'drift' a little, in which case may need to touch it up by offering the keel or and bevels to the finer stones. You certainly shouldn't need to go back to the full grinding monty unless the edge gets damaged - dropped or dinged against another piece of metal. So, look after it!

Randen Heywood
Randen Heywood | January 2, 2013 15:01

Hey Chris, Thanks for your videos. They are very helpful. Gives guys like me who are just getting started a start on the right foot. It looks there is something on the leather when you strop. Is it oil or some other kind of abrasive substance? Also the slip strop looks like it is just MDF cut to the preferred angle with leather on the edge. Is that so?

Chris Pye
Chris Pye | January 3, 2013 08:05

Randen - Yes, the leather needs impregnating with fine abrasive. (Look under Sharpening > Stropping by Hand for making strop paste.). And, yes again: shape a piece of wood/MDF/ply to suit the shape, allowing for a covering of very thin leather; and rub some strop paste into the working part. Very low tech!

David Proctor
David Proctor | March 21, 2013 14:27

Hi Chis , Thanks a lot for these videos I am now slowly fixing my errors.Just 1 question. At the end of the stropping video do you roll the V tool while stropping the apex,as with gouges, or hold it straight? Thanks again for all these excellent videos.

Chris Pye
Chris Pye | March 22, 2013 07:06

David - Good question! Straight should do it. We try to cover all the bevels (and thus edges) so, if in doubt about covering all the keel/apex, a little rock to either side would be fine.

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