Step 7: Stropping
members can download here a PDF with notes
for this lesson and a crib sheet of the various steps to have
beside you while you work.
Thanks Chris,for making vee tool sharpening less challenging and mysterious. Like many carvers I've been a bit nervous but your step by step teaching is interesting and helpful.
I agree Douglas. Very helpful. I like the concept of breaking it down to two chisels and a gouge in the middle. Really demystifies the sharpening process.
Great stuff Chris,
As one who in my earlier years of carving actually had the misfortune of breaking out a wing on a V tool through improper sharpening these step by step tuttorials will be invaluable.
I especially like the emphasis you place on locking your arms and wrists and use body motion to maintain the bevel angle.
Chris: Great tutorial ! Simple and crystal clear. If my V tools are not razor sharp now, no one but myself to blame. This is a great model for future lessons: video, audio, presentation, content, all excellent ! Russ, Cincinnati, OH - USA
Hi, Once the tool, whether that be a V-tool or gouge is sharpened, am I correct by saying that it only requires stropping to maintain this cutting edge?...or do you have to resharpen the tools again at some point?
'Commissioning' a carving tool so the tool is now working at its best: checking the cutting angle, (with a gouge) adding an inside bevel, checking the cutting edge and so on is usually a one-time event. Regular - and correct - stropping will maintain the edge and that's all you need to do. Strop often and BEFORE the edge becomes dull. However, with time you'll find the shape will 'drift' a little, in which case may need to touch it up by offering the keel or and bevels to the finer stones. You certainly shouldn't need to go back to the full grinding monty unless the edge gets damaged - dropped or dinged against another piece of metal. So, look after it!
Hey Chris, Thanks for your videos. They are very helpful. Gives guys like me who are just getting started a start on the right foot. It looks there is something on the leather when you strop. Is it oil or some other kind of abrasive substance? Also the slip strop looks like it is just MDF cut to the preferred angle with leather on the edge. Is that so?
Randen - Yes, the leather needs impregnating with fine abrasive. (Look under Sharpening > Stropping by Hand for making strop paste.). And, yes again: shape a piece of wood/MDF/ply to suit the shape, allowing for a covering of very thin leather; and rub some strop paste into the working part. Very low tech!
Hi Chis , Thanks a lot for these videos I am now slowly fixing my errors.Just 1 question. At the end of the stropping video do you roll the V tool while stropping the apex,as with gouges, or hold it straight? Thanks again for all these excellent videos.
David - Good question! Straight should do it. We try to cover all the bevels (and thus edges) so, if in doubt about covering all the keel/apex, a little rock to either side would be fine.
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